The Guardian Guide - 19th May, 2001

The much-derided kebab cleans up its act at Shish, designed to lure young urbanites who would only contemplate a doner in a fit of drunken irony. Diners perch at a long, undulating counter in a bright, open plan room. The effect is strongly and no doubt deliberately reminiscent of a conveyor-belt sushi bar. Light meze include a moreish fennel, honey and lemon salad and moist chicken in pandana leaves.

The kebabs themselves arrive on skewers or in wraps. Apricot and ginger chicken will suit those who aren’t averse to sweet main courses. The more savoury and nicely judged three-fish shish has the right amount of bite. A blend of apple, melon and cucumber juices proves invigorating, and in a particularly civilised touch, both still and sparkling spring water are freely available from taps mounted on the counter.

Shish does for kebabs what Wagamama did for noodle soup, and the second branch of the original Willesden wonder could be a star in the East. Sit at a counter for grilled-to-order skewers (which is what shish means) including apricot, ginger chicken; three fish; satay and koftes from a dozen varieties. They’re all flavours found along the Silk route – from Rome to China. Breads come from the minaret-style oven. Cocktails from adept mixers.