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Shish – In bite review

In Brief – July/August 2003


Dedicated to the art of food on a stick, Karen Jones mingled with the Hoxton set at this Middle Eastern hangout.

 

If you work in the City, there is nothing more annoying than having to schlep over to the West End to eat out. But the continued rise of Hoxton and Shoreditch saves us from this chore (and the banality of the City’s chain bars). A trot up from Broadgate Circle in nice weather and you can be slurping wonderful cocktails away from the suits in the City.

 

Shish Old Street is a new addition to the trendy eateries now sitting East of the City. Upstairs and on view to the passer-by is a brasserie style restaurant. Softer than a Conran, it has hues of earth and sand and the lighting is low and intimate. With a sweep of tables, the restaurant allows for people watching as pretty City gwappas click by in their Jimmy Choos and Spitalfields vetements.

 

The party food we sampled was mouth watering: spring rolls bursting with duck, tempura prawns with chilli dip, and Baklava (which I normally avoid – this was exquisite).

 

Downstairs, in the bar, with a lychee, cranberry and champagne cocktail is where you really want to be. Dark and moody, with Greek candles casting light on the bar and green and gold mosaiced pillars, it has an exotic feel.

 

The bespoke sofas in each booth are large enough to sit 15. It is very understated and the colours are modern, but subtle. The music is of-the-minute trendy bar stuff, so you will succeed if you are trying to convince colleagues that you are cool.

 

Guests at the launch included Lucian Freud and the verdict is out on whether Jude Law was there. I say yes, Fleur says no and Madeleine is on the fence.

 

The verdict. Go immediately and cancel your direct debits to Pitcher & Piano – they have had more than enough of your money for one lifetime.