Reviewed by Helen Nicholson, This is London (9 November 2004)

If Hoxton is an area that prides itself on setting trends and constantly updating its image, then Shish is definitely adapting to its environment; an ever-changing menu at this East London venue keeps the staff on their toes as the dishes weave their way along the path of the ancient Silk Road trade route.

With a distance spanning from China to Rome, the chef has plenty of inspiration for his dishes and rotates the menu between Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and Asian influences. Anyone hoping for authentic recipes will be disappointed though; the restaurant makes no bones about the fact that their dishes have been given the Shish twist.

The design team have devised a fresh, funky open-plan for this restaurant. Young professionals take their seats at the informal formica tables to watch their food being prepared in the open kitchen opposite. As the night progresses, regulars begin to queue at the door to get their fix and, from our selection of food, it's obvious why they're so keen.

Opting for the chartered waters of the seasonal Favourite's Menu, we sampled the diced and roasted Afghan Pumpkin in a spicy tomato sauce, which provided a sweet burst of flavour. The pureed red peppers, walnuts and pine nuts of the Muhummara was a welcome contrast and each dish was mopped-up with a generous basket full of date bread, soft pitta and thinly-sliced toasted pitta.

The main course was equally satisfying; light, succulent chunks of cod, salmon and snapper in the Three Fish dish were accompanied by a generous salad and mayonnaise dip, while the Afghan Chicken was tender and infused with just the right blend of yoghurt, garlic and spices.

For side-servings, customers can choose between fries, cous cous, rice or salad, but the offerings are all light and fresh, leaving the diner satisfied rather than stuffed. As a result, there was just enough room for dessert – a thick and creamy mound of Pannacotta with fresh raspberries and a wonderfully wintery Almond, Plum & Pistachio Pastry, served hot with a scoop of Halva ice cream.

The restaurant is a smoke-free zone so anyone who can't wait until the end of their meal for their next nicotine fix will have to dash downstairs between courses to the funky lowlit subterranean bar. Here, they'll also be able to indulge in another of Shish's specialities – the cocktails. Particularly lethal is the Holy Shish, made-up of vodka, blackberries, mint and fresh lime juice and served in a generously tall glass – not for the faint-hearted.

If you can’t face the thought of eating all that boring turkey during the festive season, Shish will be offering an alternative Christmas menu from 16th November to 30th December. Visit www.shish.com for further details.