Reviewed by Square Meal, The Times - Knowledge (8 January 2005)

Enjoy dining out without worrying about your waistline with Square Meal's guide to healthy eating in the capital.

Shish

The kebab gets a makeover and emerges svelte and trendy at the Old Street outpost of Willesden's Shish. A loose Silk Road theme allows the menu to embrace a few oriental dishes to supplement the Middle Eastern fare, so alongside Persian or lamb kofta you will find chicken satay or salmon teriyaki. Cold and hot mezze are similarly cosmopolitan but always well executed: aromatic falafel, Lebanese aubergine salad with tahini or wonderful muhammara - a red pepper dip with walnuts, pomegranate, garlic and chilli. Skewers are served main course-style on a plate or as wraps in pitta and chilli. The decor is clean and modern, the prices are reasonable and the service is quick. The Moroccan-style basement bar caters to those who want to linger.